Thursday, September 29, 2011

The Places Where Nowhere Is Home

Greg Constantine learned a great deal about the Nubians in Kenya when he spent a month photographing them in Kibera, an expansive and well-documented Nairobi slum. He poured over a rare collection of archival photographs collected from community members. He helped shape a comprehensive, and largely unseen, visual narrative of the culture.

Yet Mr. Constantine still has no idea how many Nubians there are in Kibera, once a village called Kibra. Unacknowledged until 2009 in Kenya’s census, the Nubians are a stateless people, without the rights of citizens. They are the subjects of just one chapter in Mr. Constantine’s project “Nowhere People,” which is on display at the United Nations’ headquarters in New York through Thursday as part of an exhibit called “The World’s Stateless.”

Mr. Constantine, a self-taught American photographer, started researching statelessness in 2005. Early the next year, he moved to Asia from Los Angeles to pursue the project, which he financed himself. When the time came to look for outside financial resources, he ran into difficulty.

“It was kind of like selling, or validating, the power that documentary photography could have,” Mr. Constantine said. Despite the number of groups that had been working with the issue of statelessness, the visual aspect of the story wasn’t there.

His luck improved after his work was featured in The International Herald Tribune in 2007. The following year, he met with the Office of the United Nations High Commissioner for Refugees, which ultimately supported his trip to Kenya.

“Nowhere People” spans continents. It is an immense, moody body of work composed of different chapters, each telling a complex story.

Mr. Constantine faced the challenge of capturing each group’s historical context.

“Society has changed over the past 60 years in the creation of nation states,” he said. “In a lot of places in the world, your neighbor was the person that said: ‘We know who you are. You belong here. You were born here. You have rights here.’ ”

The Nubians, who at one time were Sudanese recruits to the British Army, have lived in the Kibera region for more than 100 years. After just two days there, Mr. Constantine said he could not believe the story he had stumbled upon. It was one that seemed, compared with others, almost hopeful. “They’re really resting on the cusp of getting the recognition that they deserve,” he said.

At the end of his first month, he felt something was missing from the story. He decided to juxtapose his work with the old photographs that many Nubians had shown him. “To be able to communicate what a community has lost, it’s valuable to show what they had,” he said.

DESCRIPTION
DESCRIPTIONPhotographs Courtesy the Kenya Nubian Council of Elders Top: Women in Kibera in the 1950s. Bottom: A family photograph from the 1940s.

Mr. Constantine received a grant from the Open Society Institute to create a digital archive of Nubian history, and he recruited young Nubians to go door to door in Kibera asking people to lend him old photographs.

“Then and Now,” the monthlong exhibition that resulted, gave Kenyans the first visual history of the Nubian community. One hundred images — 50 taken by Mr. Constantine and 50 archival photographs — were arranged side by side on large sheets of vinyl. At the end of August, a smaller, outdoor exhibition went up in Kibera.

Mr. Constantine plans to work on “Nowhere People” for another year. Most recently, he traveled to the Dominican Republic. Beginning in October, the work will be published in a series of books, the first of which is “Kenya’s Nubians: Then and Now.”

Mr. Constantine, who was once a music industry professional, had not worked as a serious photographer for long before he started “Nowhere People.” By photographing groups whose distinctive identities are not recognized, he has, in many ways, created his own professional identity.

http://lens.blogs.nytimes.com/tag/nubians-in-kenya/

Wednesday, September 7, 2011

Video-Kenya's Nubians-Then and Now

Kenya's Nubians: Then & Now from Greg Constantine on Vimeo.

Once vilified and oppressed, Uganda’s Nubians become a tourist attraction


Thirty minutes away from the city, we turn off the Gulu-Kampala highway to Gangama village in Bombo, a town famous for its inhabitants — the Nubians.
The community’s long history of origin, settlement and its love-hate relationship with the government is vivid in our memories.

The driver pulls up at a home where a bridegroom is preparing for his big day.
“Come on in please. Make yourselves comfortable, but do not expect to see a lot of activity here. The action is at the bride’s place,” says the groom’s father as he ushers us in.
The groom’s mother, Aisha Mustafa Doka, who is supervising the activities, explains what it takes to marry a Nubian woman.

The groom first offers bride price to his future in-laws. The bride’s hair is plaited especially for the day at the groom’s expense.
The groom must also buy cultural wedding ornaments and outfits that include a white sheet that the bride wraps around her body during the Nikah — the Islamic wedding ritual.


The next day, she dresses up in another traditional outfit, also bought by the groom.
The ornaments and clothing are colourful, capturing attention.
It is imperative that her nose is pierced and her hair is plaited.

“The bride must also carry a special dish of meat balls — served with kisra or gurusa (yeast pancakes made from a mixture of wheat and maize flour ) — for her groom, cooked from her home, a mat for her father in-law, a traditional tray (tabaga) and a food cover (kuta),” said Aisha.
An invitation to the ceremony gives me the opportunity to learn more about the Nubian lifestyle — a cultural institution that is now being targeted by the corporate world due to its potential for cultural tourism.

The Nubians have existed in East Africa for over a century. But unlike other migratory tribes in sub-Saharan Africa, their advent was by default rather than by design.
Their entry into East Africa can be traced to the 1830s, when most, alongside their families, were brought in as soldiers under the command of Captain Frederick Lugard, Emin Pasha and Captain Williams.
Others migrated from the Nubian desert, which is now submerged under water as a result of the construction of the Aswan High Dam in southern Egypt and Gondola in northern Sudan

The Nubians gradually lost touch with their homeland. Today, they speak a kind of Arabic creole. They have however, maintained their traditions.
The community regard themselves as historical victims of Anglo-Egyptian imperialism, Arab slave trade the European scramble for Africa and the First and Second World Wars.
In Uganda, Nubians were scattered all over the country, but with the highest concentration in Bombo. Their main occupation was trade and many were employed in the national security forces during the colonial era.
Since most of them were servicemen, they were falsely identified with Idi Amin, Uganda’s military dictator who was president from 1971 to 1979, and who incidentally spoke the Nubian language, even though he hailed from the Kakwa ethnic group in West Nile.

After the fall of Amin, Nubians become targets of persecution and killings. Many lost their property through grabbing or destruction. Women concealed their identity by abandoning their traditional dress, while some fled to Sudan, Congo and Kenya for safety.
In 1982, the Obote government signed a Banking Order that was largely seen as targeting the Nubians. Their accounts were frozen.
In 2004, they filed a suit challenging the constitutionality of the order. They remain bitter over these historical injustices.
So what makes them so interesting today as to attract corporate financing?
“The unique culture of the Nubian people is a global attraction that can be tapped into for the benefit of the entire nation,” said MTN’s chief executive Themba Khumalo.
MTN launched the Bombo Nubian Community Tourism Project under the MTN Foundation after a successful one year pilot study.

It partnered with the Community Based Tourism Initiative, a non-governmental organisation that supports local communities to participate and benefit from tourism initiatives. It is expected to benefit over 3,500 people.
The Nubians are known for their rich culture and colourful handicrafts in their trademark colours of yellow, red, black and white. While the rest of the colours are manufactured, the black colour is produced naturally. How this is done is a secret the community keeps close to their hearts.

The handicrafts are readily available at the crafts shop run by the Bombo Tourism Nubian Craft Group.

However, today, it is closed as all the women who operate it are attending the wedding.
We cross Gulu highway to join a dusty road to the brides’ home in Gogonya village.
Among the artifacts at the wedding are mats, tabaga and pyramid shaped kuta (food covers) in the Nubian colours.
Along the way, we meet jovial women elegantly dressed in Nubian attire. They speak animatedly in Creole.

Later, the groom arrives at the brides home with his entourage for the Nikah. Ululations and drum beats mark the end of the religious function.
A couple of women take to the floor to perform the duluka dance which is part of the cultural activities. Duluka is now integrated in tourism activities.
What stands out about the Nubian marriage is that it is a blend of the Islamic and traditional rituals.
For example, after the Nikah, the groom enters the house and a Nubian ritual for bonding is performed. He then leaves for home without his wife, who joins him some hours later.

Nubians are also famous cooks. Their exquisite cuisine is also being targeted for tourism. On top of their kisra and gurusa, the tourist can expect a treat in traditional foods like okra in beef, pilau, chapati and vegetables in groundnut paste.
Traditional Nubian homesteads still exist where tourists can enjoy guided walks.

SOURCE - The East African Magazine

Tuesday, September 6, 2011

Umma Foundation comes to the rescue of Mama Amina


Umma Foundation comes to the rescue of Mama Amina

By Mohamed Kahiye

A needy Kibera family has reason to smile after Marhaba-The New Dawn entertainment magazine highlighted her plight in the last issue (Aug 15-30) particularly how her family breaks the fast.
Ummah Foundation of Nairobi acted swiftly and came into the rescue of Mama Amina Ibrahim 35, a mother of five who resides in Kibera slums.
Speaking after presenting foodstuffs to Mama Amina at her Kibera home, Ummah Foundation Executive Officer Musa Wekesa thanked The New Dawn team and commended them for their noble work.
“We really appreciate your noble role of highlighting the plight of Muslims especially during the holy month of Ramadhan. This is very important in creating awareness among prospective well wishers,” said Wekesa.
Besides foodstuffs, the organization also promised to sponsor three of Mama Amina’s children who are now in secondary school until they complete their education.

The New Dawn